Ruffs Semi instructional reaming/ buffing videos and a pipe making rig job setup

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Mr Beardsley
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MikeDennison wrote: Sun Sep 23, 2018 1:32 pm Mr. Mayor, these are excellent! But...I don't have any power tools. (My friends and family duck and cover when I even pick up a hammer.) Is pipe restoration possible by hand without such equipment? I've got a couple of reaming tools. But what about refinishing?
A full refinish is possible by hand, it just takes a little bit of elbow grease. One option if you're looking to re-stain a pipe after sanding is Danish Oil. There's a few dudes out there that are using it to finish pipes. If you're just looking to shine up a dull finish then maybe someone can comment on the paragon wax type products, I use Renaissance wax on my smooth pipes just because that's what I already have.

I did a hot wax on one of my pipes just for giggles and it turned out surprisingly well. Melted some white beeswax in a double boiler type thing, heated up the briar with a heat gun, started wiping hot wax on it with a cotton pad. It didn't go on perfectly even and there was some thick spots and run marks, but a few more passes with the heat gun did a bang up job of leveling it. Once it cooled and dried I just started rubbing the finish out with a soft Terry towel.
“If you try to fail, and succeed, which have you done?” - George Carlin
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MikeDennison
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Mr Beardsley wrote: Mon Sep 24, 2018 1:55 am
MikeDennison wrote: Sun Sep 23, 2018 1:32 pm Mr. Mayor, these are excellent! But...I don't have any power tools. (My friends and family duck and cover when I even pick up a hammer.) Is pipe restoration possible by hand without such equipment? I've got a couple of reaming tools. But what about refinishing?
A full refinish is possible by hand, it just takes a little bit of elbow grease. One option if you're looking to re-stain a pipe after sanding is Danish Oil. There's a few dudes out there that are using it to finish pipes. If you're just looking to shine up a dull finish then maybe someone can comment on the paragon wax type products, I use Renaissance wax on my smooth pipes just because that's what I already have.

I did a hot wax on one of my pipes just for giggles and it turned out surprisingly well. Melted some white beeswax in a double boiler type thing, heated up the briar with a heat gun, started wiping hot wax on it with a cotton pad. It didn't go on perfectly even and there was some thick spots and run marks, but a few more passes with the heat gun did a bang up job of leveling it. Once it cooled and dried I just started rubbing the finish out with a soft Terry towel.
Is there a certain grade of sandpaper or something that is better to use for things like removing finish? Are there certain types of stains to be avoided?
"I realized I had the gift of seeming to know more than I actually did." -A.J. Cronin-
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Houtenziel
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MikeDennison wrote: Tue Sep 25, 2018 8:53 am Is there a certain grade of sandpaper or something that is better to use for things like removing finish? Are there certain types of stains to be avoided?
I have found that the wet/dry paper(I usually buy 3M) in various grits up to about 500 is usually adequate for stripping finishes and getting the briar to a decent smoothness. As far as stains go, I have had good luck with alcohol based leather stains. I am fairly certain you want to avoid oil or water based stains of the Minwax variety, or anything similar to that. They typically have really nasty solvents in them, and occasionally they also contain small amounts of polyurethane or other coatings as a protectant that you really don't want on a pipe.
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MikeDennison
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houtenziel wrote: Tue Sep 25, 2018 10:58 am
MikeDennison wrote: Tue Sep 25, 2018 8:53 am Is there a certain grade of sandpaper or something that is better to use for things like removing finish? Are there certain types of stains to be avoided?
I have found that the wet/dry paper(I usually buy 3M) in various grits up to about 500 is usually adequate for stripping finishes and getting the briar to a decent smoothness. As far as stains go, I have had good luck with alcohol based leather stains. I am fairly certain you want to avoid oil or water based stains of the Minwax variety, or anything similar to that. They typically have really nasty solvents in them, and occasionally they also contain small amounts of polyurethane or other coatings as a protectant that you really don't want on a pipe.
Thank you very much for the info! Putting together a list of stuff to order now.
"I realized I had the gift of seeming to know more than I actually did." -A.J. Cronin-
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Mr Beardsley
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houtenziel wrote: Tue Sep 25, 2018 10:58 am
MikeDennison wrote: Tue Sep 25, 2018 8:53 am Is there a certain grade of sandpaper or something that is better to use for things like removing finish? Are there certain types of stains to be avoided?
I have found that the wet/dry paper(I usually buy 3M) in various grits up to about 500 is usually adequate for stripping finishes and getting the briar to a decent smoothness. As far as stains go, I have had good luck with alcohol based leather stains. I am fairly certain you want to avoid oil or water based stains of the Minwax variety, or anything similar to that. They typically have really nasty solvents in them, and occasionally they also contain small amounts of polyurethane or other coatings as a protectant that you really don't want on a pipe.
Exactly. I go higher up in grits (to 1200) but thats just me
“If you try to fail, and succeed, which have you done?” - George Carlin
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