Restored A Couple Of Ebay Estate Pipes Part

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oldbill
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Thu Dec 20, 2018 6:25 pm

I've had these two pipes for a while and just never got around to getting them in to smoking condition and this morning I saw them staring at me from their perches on my pipe rack and decided that it was time. So here's the before picture of the Peterson Shannon and the Peterson Aran...Image
You can probably see that the bowl on the Shannon is VERY caked up and the stem is green with oxidation while the Aran's silver band is pretty dull and the stem doesn't fit snug into the shank...
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So I got my three amigos and went to town on them...
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I couldn't believe how much junk came out of the Shannon, my hands were black with soot after working on reaming it out for a good 45 minutes but I got all of that excess cake out of the bowl and with the Bar Keeper's Friend I scrubbed the oxidation off of the stem...
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Last edited by oldbill on Thu Dec 20, 2018 6:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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... and you can put that in your pipe and smoke it!!!
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oldbill
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Thu Dec 20, 2018 6:30 pm

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I then got busy on the Aran and was able to scrape some junk out of the bowl shank so that the stem fit snugly and flush and with the Wright's Silver Polish I got a nice luster back on the silver band...
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Finally both pipes got a nice cleaning and conditioning with the Howard "Feed-N-Wax". This stuff has orange oil, bees wax and carnauba wax, so it cleans all the grime off and the wood gets a nice luster and shine . I use several coats, allowing it to dry a little before wiping it off and then re-applying it a couple of times. And the final result is...
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It's a little bit of work but they sure do smile at you and thank you when they're all clean and polished! ;)
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... and you can put that in your pipe and smoke it!!!
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Mr Beardsley
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Thu Dec 20, 2018 6:48 pm

Wow those really look great! I never thought of trying barkeepers on a stem but I'll be giving it a whirl soon
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Not the brightest bulb in the fixture ;)
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MikeDennison
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Thu Dec 20, 2018 7:03 pm

Excellent job, sir! They look great!
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Middle Earth
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Thu Dec 20, 2018 7:05 pm

Nice work. I like the results of the off the shelf products. In fact have them all on my shelf.
No mico-mesh, waxes, buffing compounds, etc.
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houtenziel
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Thu Dec 20, 2018 7:49 pm

Good work!
As an aside on off the shelf stuff - Soft scrub WITHOUT bleach actually works amazingly well on vulcanite oxidation, and for polishing stems. I have found that really for any product to work well on vulcanite though, you really have to complete the surface oxidation process of the sulfurs with some type of oxidizer like oxy-clean, etc. That was a lot of ox-es.
I have tried a lot of different stuff, including the Walker Briar works kit, Flitz, Blue-magic, Bar-keepers friend, toothpaste, and probably more. Short of a proper buffing wheel, none has worked quite so well as the Softscrub(no bleach!).
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oldbill
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Thu Dec 20, 2018 8:50 pm

houtenziel wrote:
Thu Dec 20, 2018 7:49 pm
Good work!
As an aside on off the shelf stuff - Soft scrub WITHOUT bleach actually works amazingly well on vulcanite oxidation, and for polishing stems. I have found that really for any product to work well on vulcanite though, you really have to complete the surface oxidation process of the sulfurs with some type of oxidizer like oxy-clean, etc. That was a lot of ox-es.
I have tried a lot of different stuff, including the Walker Briar works kit, Flitz, Blue-magic, Bar-keepers friend, toothpaste, and probably more. Short of a proper buffing wheel, none has worked quite so well as the Softscrub(no bleach!).
Thanks! I'll give the Softscrub a try. :thumbs:
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... and you can put that in your pipe and smoke it!!!
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oldbill
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Thu Dec 20, 2018 8:57 pm

Mr Beardsley wrote:
Thu Dec 20, 2018 6:48 pm
Wow those really look great! I never thought of trying barkeepers on a stem but I'll be giving it a whirl soon
Yeah I believe I found out about it from a post on the old PSF as well as the Feed-N-Wax. Wet a paper towel, sprinkle a little of the Barkeeper's on it and it becomes a light abrasive that takes that green right off. :)
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Thelonious monkfish
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Thu Dec 20, 2018 10:53 pm

houtenziel wrote:
Thu Dec 20, 2018 7:49 pm
Good work!
As an aside on off the shelf stuff - Soft scrub WITHOUT bleach actually works amazingly well on vulcanite oxidation, and for polishing stems. I have found that really for any product to work well on vulcanite though, you really have to complete the surface oxidation process of the sulfurs with some type of oxidizer like oxy-clean, etc. That was a lot of ox-es.
I have tried a lot of different stuff, including the Walker Briar works kit, Flitz, Blue-magic, Bar-keepers friend, toothpaste, and probably more. Short of a proper buffing wheel, none has worked quite so well as the Softscrub(no bleach!).
I've worked on a lot of stems, tried any number of things, and have settled on burning off the bulk of oxidation over a candle then a quick 400/800/1000 grit to get the gleam lines right and generally polish with toothpaste. Bleach pits, I won't use it and prefer things that I'm comfortable having in my mouth be used for cleaning. Burning the oxidation also helps to raise indents material wasn't removed from, careful around logos and the button, keep it moving, too much heat and the Vulcanite will bubble. Barkeepers and toothpaste really only polish, they remove light oxidation but I wouldn't use them as a first step to remove any.
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Longshanks
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Fri Dec 21, 2018 5:53 am

oldbill wrote:
Thu Dec 20, 2018 8:57 pm
Mr Beardsley wrote:
Thu Dec 20, 2018 6:48 pm
Wow those really look great! I never thought of trying barkeepers on a stem but I'll be giving it a whirl soon
Yeah I believe I found out about it from a post on the old PSF as well as the Feed-N-Wax. Wet a paper towel, sprinkle a little of the Barkeeper's on it and it becomes a light abrasive that takes that green right off. :)
I'll have to look into that for stem oxidation. Thanks for the info.

When I first got interested in restoring pipes circa 2010, I tried Howard's brand food-grade butcher's block conditioner (mineral oil and bees wax and carnuba wax) on my bowls. It had all the fixin's of pipe finishing ingredients (except for the mineral oil). The "food-grade" part was important because you never want to use toxic stains or sealers on anything you put near heat and your mouth or lungs. (I noticed Howard's Feed'n'Wax wasn't food grade, just FYI)

Anyway, my initial problem with the conditioner was it didn't buff very well because of the oil, so the bowls always had that greasy dull chap-stick-smeared look - you know, that look you see on a lot of pipes 'vintage dealers' put on eBay. I don't use the conditioner on my bowls anymore, especially after reading an article on how they prepare briar blocks for sale. You see, they work really, really, reeeeeeeeeally hard at removing all the oils from the briar. So adding oils to clean up a briar bowl you intend to smoke, while attractive at first, is clearly counter productive to the labor-intensive conditioning process briar goes through for smoking purposes.

Not everyone has tools, but a drill, arbor and a couple common buffing pads (I got all this from Lowes) are really all you need to put on a nice carnuba finish.
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